Draft Horse|adoptadrafthorse.com
May
10
Filed Under (Pets) by drafthorse
Phil Wiskell asked:
Internet fraud is prevalent everywhere and the horse industry is no exception. If you can avoid selling your horse over the internet, do so. But if the Internet is your only option or you chose to buy/sell your horse or tack on-line be aware of the following inherent obstacles.
Dubbed the Nigerian Letter Scam, it has been used in the sale of large ticket items including horses, cars, and motorcycles. The current activity noted by horse-related websites comes in different variations from foreigners in Nigeria, Africa, London, and Hong Kong seeking to buy purchase horses, frozen semen, or horse-related equipment. A third party representing a potential buyer in one of the aforementioned countries will attempt to purchase a horse using a Cashiers Check to cover the price of the horse and their shipping costs. After the horse is shipped, the third party asks you to refund the shipping charges as part of a “finders fee” arrangement. Or they may also send you a check over the amount of the purchase price and ask for a refund of the difference. Unfortunately the cashiers check is counterfeit. Many sellers don’t find this out until the horse is gone and your money has been forwarded to the scam artists.
Potential buyers/sellers watch for the following:
* The emails come from free web-based accounts written in poor English, riddled with misspellings and often too familiar and friendly in tone.
* If the party makes big promises, such as offering to pay more then the asking price without first making contact to talk about the horse, it usually a scam. Be careful of anyone who wants to send you more then your asking price.
* Beware if an individual tries to speed up the transaction beyond your comfort range. A legitimate deal isn’t going to move as fast as your money. Think things through and don’t let yourself feel pressured.
* If they ask for bank information, don’t give out financial information including personal account numbers without first establishing a comfort level with the buyer or seller. The European e-mails do try to establish a comfort level, but it’s a bit false. If you suspect anything dishonest don’t give out any information.
Take the following precautions:
Never complete a transaction without some sort of contract. Retain a lawyer to draft a contract and represent you, but if you can’t afford one, the terms of the deal should be written and signed in English by both parties. A buyer or seller that resists or is hesitant is usually a strong sign of a potential problem. To avoid further problems, it’s best to use a law office that specializes in equine business issues, such as Equine Legal Solutions in San Jose, California.
If you’re buying or selling a horse, make sure you get a pre-purchase exam on the horse considered for purchase by the buyer’s Veterinarian of choice. One customer who ships horses outside the USA came up with a solution. She requested that all horses be paid for in cash or by bank transfer - no checks, credit cards, money orders or cashiers checks. If they want to pay using anything other then cash, the horse stays at her place at their expense. The horse wasn’t allowed to leave her property until the bank confirms all the funds are there. It worked. She never heard back from potential scammers.
And finally, keep in mind the internet is a service provider of online classified advertising, not a dealer, agent or broker. They are not involved in the actual transaction between buyers and sellers and accept no liability for any type of dispute or fraud. Horse Clicks, for example, does its best to educate both buyer and seller about fraudulent activity. They intercept, report and record all contacts that seem suspicious and protect your email address from public display. All internet sites may not take the same precautions, so contact other sites if you think there’s an issue.
If you think the potential party is not legitimate or if you suspect you’ve been scammed, contact the Internet Fraud Complaint Center or your local FBI office.
BENNY
Internet fraud is prevalent everywhere and the horse industry is no exception. If you can avoid selling your horse over the internet, do so. But if the Internet is your only option or you chose to buy/sell your horse or tack on-line be aware of the following inherent obstacles.
Dubbed the Nigerian Letter Scam, it has been used in the sale of large ticket items including horses, cars, and motorcycles. The current activity noted by horse-related websites comes in different variations from foreigners in Nigeria, Africa, London, and Hong Kong seeking to buy purchase horses, frozen semen, or horse-related equipment. A third party representing a potential buyer in one of the aforementioned countries will attempt to purchase a horse using a Cashiers Check to cover the price of the horse and their shipping costs. After the horse is shipped, the third party asks you to refund the shipping charges as part of a “finders fee” arrangement. Or they may also send you a check over the amount of the purchase price and ask for a refund of the difference. Unfortunately the cashiers check is counterfeit. Many sellers don’t find this out until the horse is gone and your money has been forwarded to the scam artists.
Potential buyers/sellers watch for the following:
* The emails come from free web-based accounts written in poor English, riddled with misspellings and often too familiar and friendly in tone.
* If the party makes big promises, such as offering to pay more then the asking price without first making contact to talk about the horse, it usually a scam. Be careful of anyone who wants to send you more then your asking price.
* Beware if an individual tries to speed up the transaction beyond your comfort range. A legitimate deal isn’t going to move as fast as your money. Think things through and don’t let yourself feel pressured.
* If they ask for bank information, don’t give out financial information including personal account numbers without first establishing a comfort level with the buyer or seller. The European e-mails do try to establish a comfort level, but it’s a bit false. If you suspect anything dishonest don’t give out any information.
Take the following precautions:
Never complete a transaction without some sort of contract. Retain a lawyer to draft a contract and represent you, but if you can’t afford one, the terms of the deal should be written and signed in English by both parties. A buyer or seller that resists or is hesitant is usually a strong sign of a potential problem. To avoid further problems, it’s best to use a law office that specializes in equine business issues, such as Equine Legal Solutions in San Jose, California.
If you’re buying or selling a horse, make sure you get a pre-purchase exam on the horse considered for purchase by the buyer’s Veterinarian of choice. One customer who ships horses outside the USA came up with a solution. She requested that all horses be paid for in cash or by bank transfer - no checks, credit cards, money orders or cashiers checks. If they want to pay using anything other then cash, the horse stays at her place at their expense. The horse wasn’t allowed to leave her property until the bank confirms all the funds are there. It worked. She never heard back from potential scammers.
And finally, keep in mind the internet is a service provider of online classified advertising, not a dealer, agent or broker. They are not involved in the actual transaction between buyers and sellers and accept no liability for any type of dispute or fraud. Horse Clicks, for example, does its best to educate both buyer and seller about fraudulent activity. They intercept, report and record all contacts that seem suspicious and protect your email address from public display. All internet sites may not take the same precautions, so contact other sites if you think there’s an issue.
If you think the potential party is not legitimate or if you suspect you’ve been scammed, contact the Internet Fraud Complaint Center or your local FBI office.
BENNY
May
03
Filed Under (Pets) by drafthorse
Nancy Griffiths asked:
Winter Horse Care
For most of us Winter and Summer mean totally different routines with our horses.
The change from 24 hour turnout to a mix of stabling and turnout can be as disruptive to you horse as it is to you, so keeping it interesting and workable for both is important.
Find a routine that is manageable for you; your horse will adapt, so don’t set yourself goals you cannot achieve.
Enlist the help of other riders, friends and family – dark nights and early mornings can get pretty tiring by the end of Winter and it’s nice to be able to take turns to have a night off or a lie in.
Try to do as much as possible when you have spare time, as leaving things until the last minute does not allow leeway for the unexpected.
I always make my feeds up in the morning, then if I get held up, someone can put a feed in for me, rather than end up with an agitated horse wondering where her tea is.
Fresh air and/or good ventilation are major requirements for horses. They can tolerate considerable cold if they can move around and are dry. Avoid drafts, but allow sufficient air exchange to move stale air, humidity, and ammonia out of the horse’s environment.
Keeping the stable clean will keep ammonia levels low and there are some very good products available that destroy ammonia without harming your horse, even if ingested. I use a fresh smelling product that can be sprinkled onto the rubber matting or mixed in with the bedding. It not only reduced the bacteria but smells nice too.
Try to turn your horse out as much as possible. The lucky ones will have an area for adequate exercise well drained or with a hard standing area and access to a shelter. Most of us however will probably make do with a muddy paddock, but that can be better than standing in for hours. Remember to still have your horses hooves checked regularly, and pick out mud and stones when they come in as they will be uncomfortable and potentially cause damage to your rubber matting if you have it.
You may need to clip your horse according to how much exercise it is getting but then you will need to rug up to compensate. My horse usually has a full clip at the end of Autumn then a blanket re-clip later in Winter, as she grows a very heavy coat and is a hot horse when exercising.
Don’t neglect your grooming just because your horse is rugged up. It’s a good idea to take rugs off daily and check for any rubs or damage. Dry mud will brush off easily with a stiff brush and I find that applying a bit of coat shire mud repellent lotion really helps. I find it very soothing to have a chat with my horse whilst grooming her – she’s a great listener and it makes up for the reduced time we spend riding.
The change of diet from grass to hay/haylage can cause colic or digestive upsets, so try to make the change gradually. As Autumn sets in the grass will probably be very sparse anyway so you could start to put out some hay/haylage in the field. Keep an eye on your horse’s condition through the Winter and adjust the quantity or type of feed, depending on whether your need to increase or decrease your horse’s weight. Better to keep it under control, than to have to suddenly make drastic adjustments. Be particularly careful if you have a horse that could be potentially laminitic.
Ensure that you horse has access to drinking water, particularly when temperatures drop and external water supplies may freeze. I have read that warming water to at least 60 degrees F will increase water consumption by 40 percent to 100 percent. Dehydration (lack of water) is apparently the chief cause of impaction colic in horses.
Try to maintain a programme of exercise for your horse that fits in with your lifestyle. You may be restricted to road work, but a good brisk walk will do wonders for your horse’s fitness, and avoids risking damage from too much trotting on hard ground. Do plenty of flexion exercises at the walk and trot using leg yield and shoulder in if you can find a safe quiet lane. If you have access to a schooling area, use the time to do some groundwork exercises, lunging, free schooling or long reining.
Remember to warm your horse up slowly and thoroughly before asking for serious work. You may need to use an exercise sheet to keep the hind-quarters warm, and they have the added benefit of providing protection from the rain and if you use one of the fluorescent ones, aid visibility to other road users.
Hot horses need to be cooled down thoroughly then brushed to stand the hair up again before turning them back out. Fluffy hair traps air and keeps the horse warm; hair plastered down flat or wet lets body heat escape.
Adapting your routine to take into account weather changes, work schedule, turnout schedule, and feeding programs mean that there is no reason not to enjoy your horse as much in Winter as in Summer.
Nancy Griffiths
2007
BENITO
Winter Horse Care
For most of us Winter and Summer mean totally different routines with our horses.
The change from 24 hour turnout to a mix of stabling and turnout can be as disruptive to you horse as it is to you, so keeping it interesting and workable for both is important.
Find a routine that is manageable for you; your horse will adapt, so don’t set yourself goals you cannot achieve.
Enlist the help of other riders, friends and family – dark nights and early mornings can get pretty tiring by the end of Winter and it’s nice to be able to take turns to have a night off or a lie in.
Try to do as much as possible when you have spare time, as leaving things until the last minute does not allow leeway for the unexpected.
I always make my feeds up in the morning, then if I get held up, someone can put a feed in for me, rather than end up with an agitated horse wondering where her tea is.
Fresh air and/or good ventilation are major requirements for horses. They can tolerate considerable cold if they can move around and are dry. Avoid drafts, but allow sufficient air exchange to move stale air, humidity, and ammonia out of the horse’s environment.
Keeping the stable clean will keep ammonia levels low and there are some very good products available that destroy ammonia without harming your horse, even if ingested. I use a fresh smelling product that can be sprinkled onto the rubber matting or mixed in with the bedding. It not only reduced the bacteria but smells nice too.
Try to turn your horse out as much as possible. The lucky ones will have an area for adequate exercise well drained or with a hard standing area and access to a shelter. Most of us however will probably make do with a muddy paddock, but that can be better than standing in for hours. Remember to still have your horses hooves checked regularly, and pick out mud and stones when they come in as they will be uncomfortable and potentially cause damage to your rubber matting if you have it.
You may need to clip your horse according to how much exercise it is getting but then you will need to rug up to compensate. My horse usually has a full clip at the end of Autumn then a blanket re-clip later in Winter, as she grows a very heavy coat and is a hot horse when exercising.
Don’t neglect your grooming just because your horse is rugged up. It’s a good idea to take rugs off daily and check for any rubs or damage. Dry mud will brush off easily with a stiff brush and I find that applying a bit of coat shire mud repellent lotion really helps. I find it very soothing to have a chat with my horse whilst grooming her – she’s a great listener and it makes up for the reduced time we spend riding.
The change of diet from grass to hay/haylage can cause colic or digestive upsets, so try to make the change gradually. As Autumn sets in the grass will probably be very sparse anyway so you could start to put out some hay/haylage in the field. Keep an eye on your horse’s condition through the Winter and adjust the quantity or type of feed, depending on whether your need to increase or decrease your horse’s weight. Better to keep it under control, than to have to suddenly make drastic adjustments. Be particularly careful if you have a horse that could be potentially laminitic.
Ensure that you horse has access to drinking water, particularly when temperatures drop and external water supplies may freeze. I have read that warming water to at least 60 degrees F will increase water consumption by 40 percent to 100 percent. Dehydration (lack of water) is apparently the chief cause of impaction colic in horses.
Try to maintain a programme of exercise for your horse that fits in with your lifestyle. You may be restricted to road work, but a good brisk walk will do wonders for your horse’s fitness, and avoids risking damage from too much trotting on hard ground. Do plenty of flexion exercises at the walk and trot using leg yield and shoulder in if you can find a safe quiet lane. If you have access to a schooling area, use the time to do some groundwork exercises, lunging, free schooling or long reining.
Remember to warm your horse up slowly and thoroughly before asking for serious work. You may need to use an exercise sheet to keep the hind-quarters warm, and they have the added benefit of providing protection from the rain and if you use one of the fluorescent ones, aid visibility to other road users.
Hot horses need to be cooled down thoroughly then brushed to stand the hair up again before turning them back out. Fluffy hair traps air and keeps the horse warm; hair plastered down flat or wet lets body heat escape.
Adapting your routine to take into account weather changes, work schedule, turnout schedule, and feeding programs mean that there is no reason not to enjoy your horse as much in Winter as in Summer.
Nancy Griffiths
2007
BENITO
Mar
11
Filed Under (Pets) by drafthorse
Lydia K Kelly asked:
While most people are familiar with many of the pure breeds of horses, there are many interesting crossbreds. Each breed has its own benefits, and it is not unusual for people to try to get the best of both breeds by crossing them. The following are some common crossbreds and their usual characteristics.
Arabian Crosses
Most Arabian crosses are designed to refine the horse, without adding much height. Arabians are known for being highly sensitive and intelligent horses, who can be a bit flighty or silly at times. Most of the breeds they are crossed to tend to be solid citizens who could use a bit more pep. Many Arab crosses make excellent all-round horses who do well for children and for pleasure. Some make excellent dressage horses or hunters, combining the beautiful Arab movement with the solid personality of their crosses.
Some of the most common Arabian crosses include the Morab (Morgan x Arabian), the Quarab (Quarter Horse x Arabian) and the Arapaloosa (Appaloosa x Arabian). Another common Arabian cross is the Anglo Arabian (Thoroughbred x Arabian). Anglo Arabians are unlike the other crosses in that they are highly sensitive, have good height, and are excellent athletes. The cross has been so well established in France, that it became the foundation of their Selle Francais breed. Arabians also cross very well with some pony breeds such as Welsh Ponies.
Thoroughbred Crosses
Thoroughbreds are the most common horses to see crossbred into other breeds. Adding size and refinement, the Thoroughbred is an amazing athlete who generally produces crossbreds with excellent performance potential.
One of the most popular Thoroughbred crosses is the Appendix Quarter horse. Not only are half-breds accepted as Appendix Quarter Horses, a high percentages of Thoroughbred blood is permitted in the registry.
Smaller thoroughbreds are also crossed onto many pony breeds to produce pony-sized offspring with horse-type bodies. This type is highly popular in the hunter ring. Many successful ponies that near the highly desirable 14.2hh size are in fact part Thoroughbred.
Many breeders like to cross Thoroughbreds to draft horses. These crosses are lighter weight than drafts, and are well suited to riding. Many draft crosses become field hunters, but some of the more refined crosses become good performance horses.
Appaloosa Crosses
Appaloosas are hardy horses who are renowned for their unusual coloring. Some breeders like to cross other types of horses to Appaloosas to attempt to get the Appaloosa coloring on a horse while retaining the type of the breed they are crossing to. Arapaloosas are the Arabian x Appaloosa cross mentioned earlier, but other popular crosses include Pintos (Pintaloosa) and Tennessee Walkers (Walkaloosa).
A cross between a Shetland pony and an Appaloosa mare produced the colourful Pony of the Americas, now an established breed.
Gaited Horses
Some people enjoy crossing the highly popular gaited breeds, such as Tennessee Walkers, to other breeds. They try to retain the gait, but gain the size, substance or coloring of the other breed. Some gaited crosses include the National Show Horse (Arabian x Saddlebred) and the Tennuvian (Tennessee Walker x Peruvian Paso).
Other Crossbreds
No matter where you look, you will see other types of crossbred horses. Some are popular enough that breed registries have been formed for them. Others are still rare. While many breeders consider crossbreds to be no different than grade horses, others will defend their crossbred “breed”, claiming that it has as much validity as other breeds. Either way, you can find a cross of almost anything if you look hard enough.
FLOYD
While most people are familiar with many of the pure breeds of horses, there are many interesting crossbreds. Each breed has its own benefits, and it is not unusual for people to try to get the best of both breeds by crossing them. The following are some common crossbreds and their usual characteristics.
Arabian Crosses
Most Arabian crosses are designed to refine the horse, without adding much height. Arabians are known for being highly sensitive and intelligent horses, who can be a bit flighty or silly at times. Most of the breeds they are crossed to tend to be solid citizens who could use a bit more pep. Many Arab crosses make excellent all-round horses who do well for children and for pleasure. Some make excellent dressage horses or hunters, combining the beautiful Arab movement with the solid personality of their crosses.
Some of the most common Arabian crosses include the Morab (Morgan x Arabian), the Quarab (Quarter Horse x Arabian) and the Arapaloosa (Appaloosa x Arabian). Another common Arabian cross is the Anglo Arabian (Thoroughbred x Arabian). Anglo Arabians are unlike the other crosses in that they are highly sensitive, have good height, and are excellent athletes. The cross has been so well established in France, that it became the foundation of their Selle Francais breed. Arabians also cross very well with some pony breeds such as Welsh Ponies.
Thoroughbred Crosses
Thoroughbreds are the most common horses to see crossbred into other breeds. Adding size and refinement, the Thoroughbred is an amazing athlete who generally produces crossbreds with excellent performance potential.
One of the most popular Thoroughbred crosses is the Appendix Quarter horse. Not only are half-breds accepted as Appendix Quarter Horses, a high percentages of Thoroughbred blood is permitted in the registry.
Smaller thoroughbreds are also crossed onto many pony breeds to produce pony-sized offspring with horse-type bodies. This type is highly popular in the hunter ring. Many successful ponies that near the highly desirable 14.2hh size are in fact part Thoroughbred.
Many breeders like to cross Thoroughbreds to draft horses. These crosses are lighter weight than drafts, and are well suited to riding. Many draft crosses become field hunters, but some of the more refined crosses become good performance horses.
Appaloosa Crosses
Appaloosas are hardy horses who are renowned for their unusual coloring. Some breeders like to cross other types of horses to Appaloosas to attempt to get the Appaloosa coloring on a horse while retaining the type of the breed they are crossing to. Arapaloosas are the Arabian x Appaloosa cross mentioned earlier, but other popular crosses include Pintos (Pintaloosa) and Tennessee Walkers (Walkaloosa).
A cross between a Shetland pony and an Appaloosa mare produced the colourful Pony of the Americas, now an established breed.
Gaited Horses
Some people enjoy crossing the highly popular gaited breeds, such as Tennessee Walkers, to other breeds. They try to retain the gait, but gain the size, substance or coloring of the other breed. Some gaited crosses include the National Show Horse (Arabian x Saddlebred) and the Tennuvian (Tennessee Walker x Peruvian Paso).
Other Crossbreds
No matter where you look, you will see other types of crossbred horses. Some are popular enough that breed registries have been formed for them. Others are still rare. While many breeders consider crossbreds to be no different than grade horses, others will defend their crossbred “breed”, claiming that it has as much validity as other breeds. Either way, you can find a cross of almost anything if you look hard enough.
FLOYD
Jan
20
Filed Under (Pets) by drafthorse
Lydia V Kelly asked:
As we know there are many horse rescues in operation, both good and bad. It can be difficult to know whether a rescue is suitable for placing your older or unsound horse. By following these guidelines you will gain an insight into the basic things a rescue should provide to its animals and to its clients.
The farm should be clean and well maintained. That means that the stalls that are being used should be well bedded (any bedding is fine shavings/straw/etc) and be well mucked on a regular basis. Horses that are kept out of doors should have adequate paddock space, or be supplemented with hay. They should all have water at all times both indoors and out. Fencing should be safe and adequate to keep the horses where they belong. No barbed wire or other truly unsafe fencing should be allowed. There should be signs that the owner is making efforts to keep the fencing and barn maintained even if there are things that are evidently in need of repair (hey - we all have fence rails needing repair). The fields should be free of dangerous equipment and other items likely to cause injury to a horse. If horses are routinely kept out of doors 24/7 there should be some kind of run-in shelter available.
Feed and hay should be stored in a safe, clean environment. Grain should be contained in a way that discourages snacking by escapee horses and keeps rodents etc out of it (as much as possible - old freezers are a great way to do this - cheap and easy to get a hold of too). A variety of feed suited to the needs of the various horses at the rescue should be available. A reasonable supply of medication should be available on hand (those medications the rescue owner knows how to use correctly), especially penicillin, bute, worming paste, and banamine (anyone can learn to do intramuscular shots). If a horse needs special medication it should be evident that the medication is on hand and that the rescue knows how to use it.
The horses should be well cared for and happy in their home. Horses with special needs should show signs of having those special needs cared for. The horses should show evidence of having been groomed on a reasonably regular basis. Their feet should be in reasonable condition, showing evidence of regular hoof care (although some horses’ feet will obviously need more care than others). Rescues who have been in residence for an extended time should be in good weight, good health (with the exception of pre-existing conditions), and show evidence of regular care. New rescues of course will be more varied in condition. A rescue that routinely rescues from auctions or other questionable sources should have an appropriate quarantine area.
If the rescue is marketing riding horses there should be an appropriate area set aside for clients to try the horses. This area should be clear of obstacles that could cause injury to horse or rider. Ideally it would be flat, fenced and a minimum of 100′x50′, but that would be pretty flexible. The riding area should be easily cleared of horses (if it is a turn-out area) so that riders can ride without the interference of other horses in the ring loose with them (I’ve seen it and ridden in it before…).
If the rescue accepts stallions there should be safe, well constructed stalls (or at least one stall) available for stallion use. There should be at least one individual turn-out paddock/field with no shared fencelines and preferably electric wire for the stallion(s) to go out in. The rescue owner should have had some experience with stallions in the past before accepting them at their rescue.
If the rescue accepts mares in foal there should be an adequate place set aside for the mare(s) to foal. This could be a foaling stall (no smaller than 12′x12′, preferably bigger - especially for draft mares), or a foaling paddock (a small grass paddock, very lightly used, mucked daily when in use). There should also be a small paddock set aside (could be the foaling paddock - or could be the stallion paddock) for the mare and foal to be turned out individually for the first two weeks so they can safely bond before returning to the herd.
The person managing the rescue should be an experienced horse person with preferably over 5 years of horse experience. This experience should be varied if possible in more than one segment of the horse industry. If they are accepting stallions the manager (or an employee) should be experienced with stallions. If they are accepting mares in foal or youngstock the manager (or an employee) should have some experience with mares and foals.
The horse rescue owner/manager should be able to provide references both horsey and non-horsey. If the rescue adopts out, at least one reference should be from a prior adoptive home. References from the rescue’s regular vet and farrier should be required.
DESHAWN
As we know there are many horse rescues in operation, both good and bad. It can be difficult to know whether a rescue is suitable for placing your older or unsound horse. By following these guidelines you will gain an insight into the basic things a rescue should provide to its animals and to its clients.
The farm should be clean and well maintained. That means that the stalls that are being used should be well bedded (any bedding is fine shavings/straw/etc) and be well mucked on a regular basis. Horses that are kept out of doors should have adequate paddock space, or be supplemented with hay. They should all have water at all times both indoors and out. Fencing should be safe and adequate to keep the horses where they belong. No barbed wire or other truly unsafe fencing should be allowed. There should be signs that the owner is making efforts to keep the fencing and barn maintained even if there are things that are evidently in need of repair (hey - we all have fence rails needing repair). The fields should be free of dangerous equipment and other items likely to cause injury to a horse. If horses are routinely kept out of doors 24/7 there should be some kind of run-in shelter available.
Feed and hay should be stored in a safe, clean environment. Grain should be contained in a way that discourages snacking by escapee horses and keeps rodents etc out of it (as much as possible - old freezers are a great way to do this - cheap and easy to get a hold of too). A variety of feed suited to the needs of the various horses at the rescue should be available. A reasonable supply of medication should be available on hand (those medications the rescue owner knows how to use correctly), especially penicillin, bute, worming paste, and banamine (anyone can learn to do intramuscular shots). If a horse needs special medication it should be evident that the medication is on hand and that the rescue knows how to use it.
The horses should be well cared for and happy in their home. Horses with special needs should show signs of having those special needs cared for. The horses should show evidence of having been groomed on a reasonably regular basis. Their feet should be in reasonable condition, showing evidence of regular hoof care (although some horses’ feet will obviously need more care than others). Rescues who have been in residence for an extended time should be in good weight, good health (with the exception of pre-existing conditions), and show evidence of regular care. New rescues of course will be more varied in condition. A rescue that routinely rescues from auctions or other questionable sources should have an appropriate quarantine area.
If the rescue is marketing riding horses there should be an appropriate area set aside for clients to try the horses. This area should be clear of obstacles that could cause injury to horse or rider. Ideally it would be flat, fenced and a minimum of 100′x50′, but that would be pretty flexible. The riding area should be easily cleared of horses (if it is a turn-out area) so that riders can ride without the interference of other horses in the ring loose with them (I’ve seen it and ridden in it before…).
If the rescue accepts stallions there should be safe, well constructed stalls (or at least one stall) available for stallion use. There should be at least one individual turn-out paddock/field with no shared fencelines and preferably electric wire for the stallion(s) to go out in. The rescue owner should have had some experience with stallions in the past before accepting them at their rescue.
If the rescue accepts mares in foal there should be an adequate place set aside for the mare(s) to foal. This could be a foaling stall (no smaller than 12′x12′, preferably bigger - especially for draft mares), or a foaling paddock (a small grass paddock, very lightly used, mucked daily when in use). There should also be a small paddock set aside (could be the foaling paddock - or could be the stallion paddock) for the mare and foal to be turned out individually for the first two weeks so they can safely bond before returning to the herd.
The person managing the rescue should be an experienced horse person with preferably over 5 years of horse experience. This experience should be varied if possible in more than one segment of the horse industry. If they are accepting stallions the manager (or an employee) should be experienced with stallions. If they are accepting mares in foal or youngstock the manager (or an employee) should have some experience with mares and foals.
The horse rescue owner/manager should be able to provide references both horsey and non-horsey. If the rescue adopts out, at least one reference should be from a prior adoptive home. References from the rescue’s regular vet and farrier should be required.
DESHAWN
Oct
08
Filed Under (Pets) by drafthorse
Mitch Endick asked:
The Dalmatian is an energetic dog that was bred to run. She will not do well in an apartment unless the owner is a jogger or person able to allow her several long, hard walks a day. A properly fenced in backyard with a place to stay warm in winter and access to the house and human companionship is ideal. Or, since she seems to love horses, another ideal environment might be a horse farm. She may not do well with younger children due to her high activity and she may play too hard and nip. As a reminder, never leave a young child unsupervised with a puppy or dog. She can do well with other pets as long as she is socialized early with them. They may do poorly with other dogs or other dogs of the same ***.
*Approximate Adult Size. The approximate adult size (two years old or older) of the male Dalmatian is 22 to 24 inches to the withers (highest point of the shoulder). The female ranges from 20 to 22 inches to the withers and either *** weighs somewhere from 50 to 55 pounds.
*Special Health Considerations. Most dog breeds have certain inherited health problems associated with that specific breed and the Dalmatian is no exception. Be on the look out for inherited deafness (up to 10% or more of Dalmatian puppies are born deaf and this can make a puppy fearful and snappy), skin allergies, cataracts, and urinary stones. This disease list is an informative guideline only. Other diseases may also be significant threats, please contact your veterinarian for a complete list.
She should visit the veterinarian several times in the first year for shots, boosters and check up. Then, as an adult, she should visit the veterinarian yearly for shots and check up. As she gets older, six years and on, she should visit the veterinarian twice a year for check ups and shots. Remember; avoid feeding your dog sweets.
*Grooming. The Dalmatian coat is close fitting, fine short and dense. She is a shedder, especially during spring and fall. She should be brushed regularly to minimize shedding. Brushing will help her maintain a clean and healthy coat and help you keep a closer eye on her health and strengthen your emotional bond with her.
Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.
Her toenails may need to be examined for growth and clipped regularly. The toenails of the rear feet grow slower than the toenails of the front feet. Generally a guillotine type trimmer is the best for this chore and competent instructions to accomplish this can be found on the net.
*Life Span. The Dalmatian can live between 11 and 13 years with proper nutrition, medical care and excellent living conditions.
*History. The Dalmatian comes from the former Yugoslavia. The actual name Dalmatia is a region on the Adriatic Sea. The Brisish po;ularized the breed using her as a watchdog, shepherd, draft dog, bird dog, ratter, circus performer etc. The most famous Dalmatians were in the Disney movie, 101 Dalmatians. They were first registered by the American Kennel Association in 1888.
Some Registries:
*Dalmation Club of America
*UKC United Kennel Club
*NKC National Kennel Club
*CKC Continental Kennel Club
*APRI Americas Pet Registry Inc.
*AKC American Kennel Club
*FCI Federation Cynologique Internationale
*NZKC New Zealand Kennel Club
*KCGB = Kennel Club of Great Britain
*ANKC = Australian National Kennel Club
*ACR = American Canine Registry
Litter Size: 8 to 10 Dalmatian puppies
Category: Non-Sporting
Terms To Describe: Alert, muscular, active, alert, intelligent, fast, good endurance, stable, out going, loving, spirited,
*SPECIAL GOOD POINTS
High obedience.
High intelligence.
Good watch dog.
Medium guard dog.
She keeps herself clean.
Very low dog odor.
She is considered a joggers dog.
She likes horses.
Takes obedience training well.
Good memory.
*SPECIAL BAD POINTS
Can be a barker.
Does poorly in the cold.
Can get destructive if not permitted plenty of exercise.
Can be willful.
*Other Names Known By: Firehouse god, Carriage Dog, Plum Pudding Dog
*Every dog is an individual so not everything in this information may be correct for your dog. This information is meant as a good faith guideline only.
ARLIE
The Dalmatian is an energetic dog that was bred to run. She will not do well in an apartment unless the owner is a jogger or person able to allow her several long, hard walks a day. A properly fenced in backyard with a place to stay warm in winter and access to the house and human companionship is ideal. Or, since she seems to love horses, another ideal environment might be a horse farm. She may not do well with younger children due to her high activity and she may play too hard and nip. As a reminder, never leave a young child unsupervised with a puppy or dog. She can do well with other pets as long as she is socialized early with them. They may do poorly with other dogs or other dogs of the same ***.
*Approximate Adult Size. The approximate adult size (two years old or older) of the male Dalmatian is 22 to 24 inches to the withers (highest point of the shoulder). The female ranges from 20 to 22 inches to the withers and either *** weighs somewhere from 50 to 55 pounds.
*Special Health Considerations. Most dog breeds have certain inherited health problems associated with that specific breed and the Dalmatian is no exception. Be on the look out for inherited deafness (up to 10% or more of Dalmatian puppies are born deaf and this can make a puppy fearful and snappy), skin allergies, cataracts, and urinary stones. This disease list is an informative guideline only. Other diseases may also be significant threats, please contact your veterinarian for a complete list.
She should visit the veterinarian several times in the first year for shots, boosters and check up. Then, as an adult, she should visit the veterinarian yearly for shots and check up. As she gets older, six years and on, she should visit the veterinarian twice a year for check ups and shots. Remember; avoid feeding your dog sweets.
*Grooming. The Dalmatian coat is close fitting, fine short and dense. She is a shedder, especially during spring and fall. She should be brushed regularly to minimize shedding. Brushing will help her maintain a clean and healthy coat and help you keep a closer eye on her health and strengthen your emotional bond with her.
Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.
Her toenails may need to be examined for growth and clipped regularly. The toenails of the rear feet grow slower than the toenails of the front feet. Generally a guillotine type trimmer is the best for this chore and competent instructions to accomplish this can be found on the net.
*Life Span. The Dalmatian can live between 11 and 13 years with proper nutrition, medical care and excellent living conditions.
*History. The Dalmatian comes from the former Yugoslavia. The actual name Dalmatia is a region on the Adriatic Sea. The Brisish po;ularized the breed using her as a watchdog, shepherd, draft dog, bird dog, ratter, circus performer etc. The most famous Dalmatians were in the Disney movie, 101 Dalmatians. They were first registered by the American Kennel Association in 1888.
Some Registries:
*Dalmation Club of America
*UKC United Kennel Club
*NKC National Kennel Club
*CKC Continental Kennel Club
*APRI Americas Pet Registry Inc.
*AKC American Kennel Club
*FCI Federation Cynologique Internationale
*NZKC New Zealand Kennel Club
*KCGB = Kennel Club of Great Britain
*ANKC = Australian National Kennel Club
*ACR = American Canine Registry
Litter Size: 8 to 10 Dalmatian puppies
Category: Non-Sporting
Terms To Describe: Alert, muscular, active, alert, intelligent, fast, good endurance, stable, out going, loving, spirited,
*SPECIAL GOOD POINTS
High obedience.
High intelligence.
Good watch dog.
Medium guard dog.
She keeps herself clean.
Very low dog odor.
She is considered a joggers dog.
She likes horses.
Takes obedience training well.
Good memory.
*SPECIAL BAD POINTS
Can be a barker.
Does poorly in the cold.
Can get destructive if not permitted plenty of exercise.
Can be willful.
*Other Names Known By: Firehouse god, Carriage Dog, Plum Pudding Dog
*Every dog is an individual so not everything in this information may be correct for your dog. This information is meant as a good faith guideline only.
ARLIE
Sep
02
Filed Under (Pets) by drafthorse
Jan A Ryan asked:
The amazing trainability and eagerness to please give German Shepherds both good and bad personalities, as they can be easily trained to do just about anything - including attacking people. German Shepherd dogs worship the people they live with. They need to be active and have a job to do in order to keep them from being destructive. German Shepherds will worship you and need your attention. Any German Shepherd dog trained to do bad things can be retrained with patience.
What qualities would you look for in a friend? You would hope they would stick by your side through good times and bad. You pray that they will never betray your secrets. You wish that they would help you out when you needed help. You can find all of these qualities in a German Shepherd dog. And, as added benefit, they won’t sue you, either.
You need to do your part in this friendship, as well, in order for it to work out. You have to be patient, have a sense of humor and learn all you can about the German Shepherd breed. You have to be committed to exercising your German Shepherd dog every day, with a walk and play. They need to be active, or else they get a bit hyperactive. They also need regular trips to the vet for inoculations and check ups. Purebred German Shepherds are more inclined to have genetically caused problems than many other breeds of dog. You must be willing to pay any and all medical costs for your friend.
German Shepherd dogs worship the human beings they either live with or are ordered to protect. They would rather hang out with their people than with other dogs. The approval and affection of their people is vital to their sense of well-being. These are not dogs that like to be alone, chained out in the yard. Any German Shepherd left to this fate will overcompensate with hyperactivity in order to get his people’s attention. Since they are such large and powerful dogs, even playful boisterousness can possibly hurt someone.
German Shepherds excel when given specific jobs to do. This is why they are often one of the first breeds of choice for police dogs, search and rescue dogs, assistance dogs and for working in entertainment. Throughout the centuries, they have also played the roles of sheepherders and draft animals as well as their more familiar roles as guard dogs and military dogs.
A German Shepherd dog needs regular exercise, attention and grooming. Getting them spayed or neutered will also not only lengthen their life span, but also make them more willing to pay attention to you. German Shepherds really are not suitable for apartment life, unless they get a lot of outdoor exercise. They learn to leash train very well (and can often be voice trained), whether their owners are walking, jogging, riding a bike or riding a horse.
Hopefully, armed with this German Shepherd information about their basic personality, you will know if a German Shepherd dog is right for your home and lifestyle. There are variations in each dog’s individual personality, as there are with each dog’s physical traits. Some are more timid than others. Some are more serious than others. Some seem more psychic than others. But they need a lot of activity and attention in order to really become a member of your family.
DOMINIQUE
The amazing trainability and eagerness to please give German Shepherds both good and bad personalities, as they can be easily trained to do just about anything - including attacking people. German Shepherd dogs worship the people they live with. They need to be active and have a job to do in order to keep them from being destructive. German Shepherds will worship you and need your attention. Any German Shepherd dog trained to do bad things can be retrained with patience.
What qualities would you look for in a friend? You would hope they would stick by your side through good times and bad. You pray that they will never betray your secrets. You wish that they would help you out when you needed help. You can find all of these qualities in a German Shepherd dog. And, as added benefit, they won’t sue you, either.
You need to do your part in this friendship, as well, in order for it to work out. You have to be patient, have a sense of humor and learn all you can about the German Shepherd breed. You have to be committed to exercising your German Shepherd dog every day, with a walk and play. They need to be active, or else they get a bit hyperactive. They also need regular trips to the vet for inoculations and check ups. Purebred German Shepherds are more inclined to have genetically caused problems than many other breeds of dog. You must be willing to pay any and all medical costs for your friend.
German Shepherd dogs worship the human beings they either live with or are ordered to protect. They would rather hang out with their people than with other dogs. The approval and affection of their people is vital to their sense of well-being. These are not dogs that like to be alone, chained out in the yard. Any German Shepherd left to this fate will overcompensate with hyperactivity in order to get his people’s attention. Since they are such large and powerful dogs, even playful boisterousness can possibly hurt someone.
German Shepherds excel when given specific jobs to do. This is why they are often one of the first breeds of choice for police dogs, search and rescue dogs, assistance dogs and for working in entertainment. Throughout the centuries, they have also played the roles of sheepherders and draft animals as well as their more familiar roles as guard dogs and military dogs.
A German Shepherd dog needs regular exercise, attention and grooming. Getting them spayed or neutered will also not only lengthen their life span, but also make them more willing to pay attention to you. German Shepherds really are not suitable for apartment life, unless they get a lot of outdoor exercise. They learn to leash train very well (and can often be voice trained), whether their owners are walking, jogging, riding a bike or riding a horse.
Hopefully, armed with this German Shepherd information about their basic personality, you will know if a German Shepherd dog is right for your home and lifestyle. There are variations in each dog’s individual personality, as there are with each dog’s physical traits. Some are more timid than others. Some are more serious than others. Some seem more psychic than others. But they need a lot of activity and attention in order to really become a member of your family.
DOMINIQUE
Aug
01
Filed Under (Pets) by drafthorse
Jane Saeman asked:
Since the mid 18th century, historians have found references to the breed of dog known as the Dalmatian. The breeds’ first established home, for which the breed was also named after was Dalmatia. It is a place in the Western Yugoslavian area which at one time was part of Austria, located on the Adriatic.
However, these dogs were well-known throughout many parts of the world long before that time. The breed was shown in various types of antique art including engravings, paintings, models, and early writings which have accounted for the presence of spotted dogs of the same size and type in wide-ranging areas including early Africa, Asia, and Europe. As history tells us, several bands of ancient gypsies (Romanies) were accompanied by the dogs in their wanderings around the world, which explains the vast widespread and popularity of the breed.
The Dalmatian quickly became a favorite and established some of their best known claims to fame in Great Britain. They were brought there by members of the British upper classes who in those days often made tours to Europe and would often come back accompanied by some of the striking spotted dogs.
Right after they were adopted by the English aristocracy who used them to accompany their horse-drawn carriages, the charming dog soon became a feature of these processions. The dogs were taught to station themselves beneath the rear axle of the coach, and in some cases to trot underneath the pole separating the horses. They were also taught to lead the procession, trotting along ahead of the first horse, which was an impressive sight to see!
Another type of activity with which the Dalmatian became known for, which also said to have started in Great Britain, is his very famous role of being a “firehouse dog.” This was said to have started with the dogs being used as ratters, for the function of killing vermin in London’s stables and firehouses, which they did with expertise.
But these dogs loved the horses and the fire engine, so it was almost inevitable that they soon were racing ahead of them through the streets whenever the alarm was sounded. In the present days, many Dalmatians can still be seen riding on the fire trucks with their masters. Dalmatians are still considered as the mascot and are often found in firehouses, not only in Great Britain but in the United States and other countries as well.
In addition to being a “firehouse dog,” Dalmatians have also worked in war times; done sentinel duty; served as shepherd’s dogs; and as draft dogs. They have been seen in many circus shows, especially enjoying popularity with the clowns as “assistants,” their intelligence, aptitude, and showy appearance having fitted them particularly well for this activity.
CARTER
Since the mid 18th century, historians have found references to the breed of dog known as the Dalmatian. The breeds’ first established home, for which the breed was also named after was Dalmatia. It is a place in the Western Yugoslavian area which at one time was part of Austria, located on the Adriatic.
However, these dogs were well-known throughout many parts of the world long before that time. The breed was shown in various types of antique art including engravings, paintings, models, and early writings which have accounted for the presence of spotted dogs of the same size and type in wide-ranging areas including early Africa, Asia, and Europe. As history tells us, several bands of ancient gypsies (Romanies) were accompanied by the dogs in their wanderings around the world, which explains the vast widespread and popularity of the breed.
The Dalmatian quickly became a favorite and established some of their best known claims to fame in Great Britain. They were brought there by members of the British upper classes who in those days often made tours to Europe and would often come back accompanied by some of the striking spotted dogs.
Right after they were adopted by the English aristocracy who used them to accompany their horse-drawn carriages, the charming dog soon became a feature of these processions. The dogs were taught to station themselves beneath the rear axle of the coach, and in some cases to trot underneath the pole separating the horses. They were also taught to lead the procession, trotting along ahead of the first horse, which was an impressive sight to see!
Another type of activity with which the Dalmatian became known for, which also said to have started in Great Britain, is his very famous role of being a “firehouse dog.” This was said to have started with the dogs being used as ratters, for the function of killing vermin in London’s stables and firehouses, which they did with expertise.
But these dogs loved the horses and the fire engine, so it was almost inevitable that they soon were racing ahead of them through the streets whenever the alarm was sounded. In the present days, many Dalmatians can still be seen riding on the fire trucks with their masters. Dalmatians are still considered as the mascot and are often found in firehouses, not only in Great Britain but in the United States and other countries as well.
In addition to being a “firehouse dog,” Dalmatians have also worked in war times; done sentinel duty; served as shepherd’s dogs; and as draft dogs. They have been seen in many circus shows, especially enjoying popularity with the clowns as “assistants,” their intelligence, aptitude, and showy appearance having fitted them particularly well for this activity.
CARTER
Jul
20
Filed Under (Pets) by drafthorse
John Williams asked:
The Dalmatian is an energetic dog that was bred to run. She will not do well in an apartment unless the owner is a jogger or person able to allow her several long, hard walks a day. A properly fenced in backyard with a place to stay warm in winter and access to the house and human companionship is ideal. Or, since she seems to love horses, another ideal environment might be a horse farm.
She may not do well with younger children due to her high activity and she may play too hard and nip. As a reminder, never leave a young child unsupervised with a puppy or dog. She can do well with other pets as long as she is socialized early with them. They may do poorly with other dogs or other dogs of the same ***.
Approximate Adult Size
The approximate adult size (two years old or older) of the male Dalmatian is 22 to 24 inches to the withers (highest point of the shoulder). The female ranges from 20 to 22 inches to the withers and either *** weighs somewhere from 50 to 55 pounds.
Special Health Considerations
Most dog breeds have certain inherited health problems associated with that specific breed and the Dalmatian is no exception. Be on the look out for inherited deafness (up to 10% or more of Dalmatian puppies are born deaf and this can make a puppy fearful and snappy), skin allergies, cataracts, and urinary stones. This disease list is an informative guideline only. Other diseases may also be significant threats, please contact your veterinarian for a complete list.
She should visit the veterinarian several times in the first year for shots, boosters and check up. Then, as an adult, she should visit the veterinarian yearly for shots and check up. As she gets older, six years and on, she should visit the veterinarian twice a year for check ups and shots. Remember; avoid feeding your dog sweets.
Grooming
The Dalmatian coat is close fitting, fine short and dense. She is a shedder, especially during spring and fall. She should be brushed regularly to minimize shedding. Brushing will help her maintain a clean and healthy coat and help you keep a closer eye on her health and strengthen your emotional bond with her.
Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.
Her toenails may need to be examined for growth and clipped regularly. The toenails of the rear feet grow slower than the toenails of the front feet. Generally a guillotine type trimmer is the best for this chore and competent instructions to accomplish this can be found on the net.
Life Span
The Dalmatian can live between 11 and 13 years with proper nutrition, medical care and excellent living conditions.
History
The Dalmatian comes from the former Yugoslavia. The actual name Dalmatia is a region on the Adriatic Sea. The Brisish popularized the breed using her as a watchdog, shepherd, draft dog, bird dog, ratter, circus performer etc. The most famous Dalmatians were in the Disney movie, 101 Dalmatians. They were first registered by the American Kennel Association in 1888.
CHANCE
The Dalmatian is an energetic dog that was bred to run. She will not do well in an apartment unless the owner is a jogger or person able to allow her several long, hard walks a day. A properly fenced in backyard with a place to stay warm in winter and access to the house and human companionship is ideal. Or, since she seems to love horses, another ideal environment might be a horse farm.
She may not do well with younger children due to her high activity and she may play too hard and nip. As a reminder, never leave a young child unsupervised with a puppy or dog. She can do well with other pets as long as she is socialized early with them. They may do poorly with other dogs or other dogs of the same ***.
Approximate Adult Size
The approximate adult size (two years old or older) of the male Dalmatian is 22 to 24 inches to the withers (highest point of the shoulder). The female ranges from 20 to 22 inches to the withers and either *** weighs somewhere from 50 to 55 pounds.
Special Health Considerations
Most dog breeds have certain inherited health problems associated with that specific breed and the Dalmatian is no exception. Be on the look out for inherited deafness (up to 10% or more of Dalmatian puppies are born deaf and this can make a puppy fearful and snappy), skin allergies, cataracts, and urinary stones. This disease list is an informative guideline only. Other diseases may also be significant threats, please contact your veterinarian for a complete list.
She should visit the veterinarian several times in the first year for shots, boosters and check up. Then, as an adult, she should visit the veterinarian yearly for shots and check up. As she gets older, six years and on, she should visit the veterinarian twice a year for check ups and shots. Remember; avoid feeding your dog sweets.
Grooming
The Dalmatian coat is close fitting, fine short and dense. She is a shedder, especially during spring and fall. She should be brushed regularly to minimize shedding. Brushing will help her maintain a clean and healthy coat and help you keep a closer eye on her health and strengthen your emotional bond with her.
Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.
Her toenails may need to be examined for growth and clipped regularly. The toenails of the rear feet grow slower than the toenails of the front feet. Generally a guillotine type trimmer is the best for this chore and competent instructions to accomplish this can be found on the net.
Life Span
The Dalmatian can live between 11 and 13 years with proper nutrition, medical care and excellent living conditions.
History
The Dalmatian comes from the former Yugoslavia. The actual name Dalmatia is a region on the Adriatic Sea. The Brisish popularized the breed using her as a watchdog, shepherd, draft dog, bird dog, ratter, circus performer etc. The most famous Dalmatians were in the Disney movie, 101 Dalmatians. They were first registered by the American Kennel Association in 1888.
CHANCE
Jun
25
Filed Under (Pets) by drafthorse
Brian B asked:
There are thousands of horses being auctioned every year and this includes, pleasure horses and ponies, racehorses who did not quite measure up at the track, draft horses as well as donkeys, mules and others.
Many people may picture the horse auction as being elite, such as the Kentucky sale rings in which racehorses are sold for huge amounts of money are no exception. This may be the case but there is also a darker side to horse auctions for in the USA, the local horse auction is the main place that people come to buy and sell horses and these auctions are mostly held at county livestock markets, every week or every month.
Inexpensive Riding Horses and Ponies
There may be many people who visit the auction in the hope of finding an inexpensive riding horse or a pony but there are also many killer buyers who represent federally licensed horse slaughterhouses in the United States, who come to buy horses at an auction. The case of an unwanted horse is one that means it will usually end up at a slaughterhouse after being purchased by middlemen who further fatten and send them to the slaughter house.
The condition of horses being traded at an auction may vary quite a bit and some are in excellent health with splendid coats and hooves and beautifully maintained manes while others have been trucked to auction by anonymous haulers. There are instances of such horses being victims of extreme neglect. Starvation is a common affliction seen among horses being sold at the horse auction and there are plenty of horses with hip bones as well as ribs so exposed that one may be forgiven for thinking that such horses are walking skeletons.
There are many sources for obtaining a listing of all the available horse auctions taking place throughout the United States and one can even go online and check out various web sites that have detailed listings of all horse auctions that are taking place or will be taking place in the near future..
EVERETTE
There are thousands of horses being auctioned every year and this includes, pleasure horses and ponies, racehorses who did not quite measure up at the track, draft horses as well as donkeys, mules and others.
Many people may picture the horse auction as being elite, such as the Kentucky sale rings in which racehorses are sold for huge amounts of money are no exception. This may be the case but there is also a darker side to horse auctions for in the USA, the local horse auction is the main place that people come to buy and sell horses and these auctions are mostly held at county livestock markets, every week or every month.
Inexpensive Riding Horses and Ponies
There may be many people who visit the auction in the hope of finding an inexpensive riding horse or a pony but there are also many killer buyers who represent federally licensed horse slaughterhouses in the United States, who come to buy horses at an auction. The case of an unwanted horse is one that means it will usually end up at a slaughterhouse after being purchased by middlemen who further fatten and send them to the slaughter house.
The condition of horses being traded at an auction may vary quite a bit and some are in excellent health with splendid coats and hooves and beautifully maintained manes while others have been trucked to auction by anonymous haulers. There are instances of such horses being victims of extreme neglect. Starvation is a common affliction seen among horses being sold at the horse auction and there are plenty of horses with hip bones as well as ribs so exposed that one may be forgiven for thinking that such horses are walking skeletons.
There are many sources for obtaining a listing of all the available horse auctions taking place throughout the United States and one can even go online and check out various web sites that have detailed listings of all horse auctions that are taking place or will be taking place in the near future..
EVERETTE
Jun
23
Filed Under (Pets) by drafthorse
Lydia K Kelly asked:
No matter where you look, you will see them advertised: Warmblood horses for sale. But what exactly is a Warmblood and what makes them different from the other breeds?
There are two different definitions for the term. One is commonly referred to as Warmbloods, while the other is not capitalized: warmbloods. Technically a warmblood is any horse that is a crossbred between a “cold blood”, such as a draft horse, and a “hot blood”, such as a Thoroughbred.
Many people who crossbreed drafts with Thoroughbreds will call their offspring warmbloods. While this upsets many Warmblood breeders, they are technically correct. The thing is, most draft crosses are not of the same quality and type as a Warmblood, and most are not suited to the upper levels of performance. Draft crosses tend to be inconsistent in type, and the second generation crosses may show any range of draft or non-draft qualities. The also tend to be heavier in type than is considered best for performance.
While Warmbloods were developed from similar crosses, this development started hundreds of years ago. In recent years there is rarely any addition of heavier bloodlines. Instead, many Warmblood breed registries have chosen to add some lighter blood from select Thoroughbred bloodlines to refine the breeds and produce horses with even better performance ability.
It takes many generations to produce an animal that is genetically sound and will consistently produce the same quality and type generation after generation. Since Warmbloods have been produced with specific goals in mind for so many years, it is possible to expect a consistent level of quality and type from Warmblood breedings.
Warmblood breed registries have stringent testing programs to select only the best stock for the breeding programs, culling animals that cannot make the grade. This allows the registries to maintain a consistent level of quality, and to make improvements to the breed.
Another thing you may come across when shopping for a horse is an animal advertised as “warmblood type”. This means that the horse has a solid, yet refined build and is athletic. This may be applied to any breed of horse and has nothing to do with bloodlines at all.
So, if you are looking for a performance horse, be aware that a horse advertised as a warmblood may in fact be any combination of bloodlines that makes it a cross between a cold blood and a hot blood. A horse who is of “warmblood type” may not have any actual warmblood bloodlines in it at all, and could even be grade. If a horse is advertised as a Warmblood, it should have European Warmblood bloodlines such as Hanoverian, Holsteiner or Oldenburg in it. It should be registered with one of the recognized Warmblood registries.
While you can find a perfectly good warmblood or horse of “warmblood type” who will be successful in the ring, not all will have been bred for the purpose. It is possible to find a higher level of consistency of type of quality from a Warmblood from a recognized registry. A Warmblood may cost more, but often the price difference is worth it.
DAMON
No matter where you look, you will see them advertised: Warmblood horses for sale. But what exactly is a Warmblood and what makes them different from the other breeds?
There are two different definitions for the term. One is commonly referred to as Warmbloods, while the other is not capitalized: warmbloods. Technically a warmblood is any horse that is a crossbred between a “cold blood”, such as a draft horse, and a “hot blood”, such as a Thoroughbred.
Many people who crossbreed drafts with Thoroughbreds will call their offspring warmbloods. While this upsets many Warmblood breeders, they are technically correct. The thing is, most draft crosses are not of the same quality and type as a Warmblood, and most are not suited to the upper levels of performance. Draft crosses tend to be inconsistent in type, and the second generation crosses may show any range of draft or non-draft qualities. The also tend to be heavier in type than is considered best for performance.
While Warmbloods were developed from similar crosses, this development started hundreds of years ago. In recent years there is rarely any addition of heavier bloodlines. Instead, many Warmblood breed registries have chosen to add some lighter blood from select Thoroughbred bloodlines to refine the breeds and produce horses with even better performance ability.
It takes many generations to produce an animal that is genetically sound and will consistently produce the same quality and type generation after generation. Since Warmbloods have been produced with specific goals in mind for so many years, it is possible to expect a consistent level of quality and type from Warmblood breedings.
Warmblood breed registries have stringent testing programs to select only the best stock for the breeding programs, culling animals that cannot make the grade. This allows the registries to maintain a consistent level of quality, and to make improvements to the breed.
Another thing you may come across when shopping for a horse is an animal advertised as “warmblood type”. This means that the horse has a solid, yet refined build and is athletic. This may be applied to any breed of horse and has nothing to do with bloodlines at all.
So, if you are looking for a performance horse, be aware that a horse advertised as a warmblood may in fact be any combination of bloodlines that makes it a cross between a cold blood and a hot blood. A horse who is of “warmblood type” may not have any actual warmblood bloodlines in it at all, and could even be grade. If a horse is advertised as a Warmblood, it should have European Warmblood bloodlines such as Hanoverian, Holsteiner or Oldenburg in it. It should be registered with one of the recognized Warmblood registries.
While you can find a perfectly good warmblood or horse of “warmblood type” who will be successful in the ring, not all will have been bred for the purpose. It is possible to find a higher level of consistency of type of quality from a Warmblood from a recognized registry. A Warmblood may cost more, but often the price difference is worth it.
DAMON
